So, when either the product, the competition for it or the audience that demand it changes, the marketplace shifts. And yes, they change all the damn time.
One such change befalling the hospitality trade right now is the searing shift from a deep, ready pool of talent queuing up to wait tables and tend bar and cut veg, to a barren, hollow chasm. Where have they gone? We celebrate talent behind the pass and bar today more so than ever and the pre-eminence of fast-casual has lowered the barrier to entry for most positions.
This isn’t an anti-Brexit argument, nor could it be; this reality is many years in the making and a result of significant changes in the industry, relative to others.
There are WAY more restaurants, bars and cafes (but fewer pubs) than ever before, therefore more roles to fill. An industry that is notorious for churn now spits out untrained managers and supervisors, further inhibiting recruitment and retention and creating a talent shortage, rather than simply a labour shortage.
We laud the celebrity chef & bartender whilst simultaneously demeaning the rank & file. Stories of interminably long hours, poor career progression and pervading drug culture are prolific. Would you recommend that to your loved one if another option were available?
Positive notions – work-life balance; positive business ethics; environmentalism – have rapidly gained primacy. Good. However, hospitality has been slower to incorporate them compared to other industries. The idea of working for some free food and tips is no longer as appealing.
Vlogger and Instagram entrepreneur. Bitcoin miner, poker millionaire and UX designer. Whatever a ‘Chief Entertainment Officer’ is. What do you want to try and be? One of these shiny new things, or a KP?
An undercover killer: A generation ago, someone trying to find an entry-level job would print out a CV and take it underarm to a town centre. Bars & restaurants are accessible, welcoming places. They ensnared many-a-talented-recruit.
Training is not a priority. Work is brisk and operational. Even senior managers find very little time to diagnose issues beyond ‘….argh!’ with any regularity. And recruitment is broken.
This reinforces flawed, anachronistic systems, and limits the pace of change.
There is none. Rates go up. Rent goes up. Payroll is going up. (not arguing that one, but the cumulative effect should not be ignored). All the while, other trades are supported by the government to extraordinary degrees, despite falling far, far behind the level of productivity, employment and value of hospitality.
The costs squeeze a low margin model. Businesses operate in survival mode. Long-term thinking goes the way of the wonky veg all too often.
A False Narrative
Until recently, most people figured the industry was in the ascendency. And why not? More restaurants opened in London during September 2017 than ever. More money piles in from abroad. The dream of owning a joint will always be popular.
But this belies….well…everything else we’ve just discussed. And it’s made us complacent and inert. You might laud the creativity of new chefs, cuisines and concepts. Good. They deserve it. But until that innovation is matched behind the scenes, the talent shortage will continue.